Bull ElkMigrating bull elk settle in for the winter at the National Elk Refuge. (Photo David A. Murray)

The cold and moisture of the night air united and blizzard-like conditions filled the dark skies over the elk herd in Jackson Hole, Wyoming.

The setting sun brought darkness to the expansive mountain valley. A cold blast of November wind whistled through the valley as the lighted motel sign flickered "No Vacancy"; another attempt to secure a room for the night failed. Finally, after several attempts, a recent cancellation provided a place for a much-needed good nights rest.

The next morning, poking my head out the opened motel room door, revealed the early morning sun mixed with blowing snow. The weather created conditions where visibility, beyond the rental truck parked in front of the motel room, became impossible.

Finally, about midday, the storm began to subside, and the visibility began to improve. As each hour went by, the large mountain valley began to reveal more of itself and the seasonal inhabitants.

The migrating herd of Rocky Mountain elk just seemed to appear, and with each passing day, the morning sun would expose another several hundred new members to the herd. Eventually, the hundreds turned to thousands as the spectacular sight began to reach almost unbelievable proportions.

North America was obviously a very different place before the first European settlers arrived. Elk ranged across most of the continent and were plentiful in the eastern states and through central and western parts of the country. These animals grazed the woodlands in the east, open prairies and mountain valleys in the central part of the country, and populated the foothills in the west.

However, as the settlers began to arrive in the east and slowly pushed their way westward, the elk populations quickly began to change. Farms and ranches overtook the grazing grounds, and crops and cattle displaced the elk. The cattle populated the elk's wintering grounds and the starving elk began to raid farmer's winter haystacks; the desperate elk were shot by the hundreds. It wasn't long before settlements began to spring-up and block traditional migratory routes, and conflicts escalated between man and elk.

The habitat encroachment had a significant impact and, by the end of the 1800s, elk were displaced from ninety percent of their original range.

The region now known as Jackson Hole, Wyoming, was once home to over 25,000 elk. The early settlers began to arrive in Jackson Hole in the late 1800s, and it wasn't long before the pristine valley attracted settlers by the hundreds. The town of Jackson quickly developed; however, it was unfortunately located right in the middle of one of the largest tracts of land historically used by elk for winter migration and sustenance. It didn't take long before almost the entire herd was decimated.

Fortunately, the early 1900s brought awareness of the elk herd destruction to the general population and in 1912 public interest in the survival of the elk paved the way for the National Elk Refuge in Jackson Hole. The refuge is now comprised of nearly 25,000 acres and administered by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.

Elk spend about six months of the year in the mountains, high country, and woodlands, where the food and cover are plentiful. Migration into the valleys usually depends upon the weather. However, late October or early November usually brings enough snow in the higher elevations to trigger their traditional migration from the summer ranges in the Tetons and Yellowstone to the valley winter range in Jackson Hole. Today, the National Elk Refuge provides a winter home for about 7,500 elk. This is estimated to be well over half of the elk population in the region.

The Refuge not only protects the animals, but because such a large amount of the original wintering habitat has succumbed to commercial development, it also feeds them. In the most severe part of winter, the Refuge distributes large stockpiles of pelletized alfalfa hay. The frozen ground and crusted snow prevents the elk from grazing, and the alfalfa provides the much-needed protein to sustain the animals through the winter.

Unfortunately, for many elk, the harsh winter weather brings death. This has attracted many predators and, so now, the Refuge is the winter home and hunting ground for the bald eagle, coyote, and mountain lion.

The elk generally remain in the National Elk Refuge for about six months, depending on the weather. However, usually by late April or early May, they begin their trek back into the higher elevations and make their way back to the summer feeding grounds.

Good shooting!

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